Friday, June 12, 2015

FO: Custom Fit Blouse

Untitled UntitledUntitled Untitled

Oh, this one. I started this Custom Fit blouse a long time ago, probably back in November or so? Knit in Ultra Pima on small needles, this was a physically difficult fabric to create, so it took me quite a while to finish this sweater.

Overall, I'm glad that I went through the process, but the final product isn't quite what I'd hoped. As I've mentioned to many of our Custom Fit customers at the shop, it can take a sweater or two to tweak the pattern to your exact specifications, and my own experience was no different.

As far as my own fit issues go, here's a couple of things I would change, if the thought of tearing out this sweater didn't make me immediately curl up into a ball, pill-bug style:

- The width of the shoulders is very good, but the depth of the armhole is a little bit too much - I can feel the shoulder seams raising up every time I lift my arms. (I also like the armholes on my blouses high and tight, so that's a personal preference thing too.) Easy fix there.

- I did the Close Fitting silhouette, and it's just not fitted enough for my taste. The cotton yarn I used also stretched past my schematic measurements by about an inch total, so that can account for some of it. But even so, the schematic called for 2.5 inches of positive ease in the waist, which is way more than I'd usually prefer. I would have liked to see a very fitted option. As a busty person who can easily look 10-20 pounds heavier with less fitted silhouettes, I prefer to have a skosh of negative ease in the waist in knit blouses, which doesn't seem to be possible with Custom Fit given the sweater templates available. (Other Custom Fit folks, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong about that!)

- Holy cats, the sweep of the hip is huge on this thing! There is so much extra fabric at the hip that it is unwearable with anything but a very full skirt. This is probably a gauge problem, and probably would have been fine if I hadn't gone up a needle size on the Daisy Stitch edging.

Overall, I think Custom Fit is a powerful product for knitters interested in garment construction, particularly prolific sweater knitters. The measuring process is a bit more in-depth, but well worth it for the detailed fit information it provides. I think it's worth it for any knitter to give it a whirl.

For me personally, I'm such a control freak, and I have such specific tastes in silhouettes and fit, that I don't think Custom Fit is the right program for me, and that's okay! I love understanding the nitty gritty details of design and construction, and now I know that I really do want to get my hands dirty with some math to get the fit I want.

And in the meantime, my Custom Fit sweater is gonna go chill at The Fiber Gallery with its Custom Fit sweater buddies.

More details on Ravelry here.

Happy Friday!


Turbo said...

It looks beautiful the way you styled it!! But I agree with you about positive ease in the waist... what??? I ALWAYS fit my sweaters with 2" - 4" of negative ease in the waist. Great work!!

Kat Riddell said...

I love the pink and I love the daisy stitch! I really like the way you styled it here, too, but I can see what you're saying about the ease in the waist and hip. Beautiful work!

Maeve said...

I think it looks great on you! I am currently finishing up my first Custom Fit pattern and I agree about the close-fit being not very close. I don't mind too much, but I am suspicious that I have knit looser on the garment than I did for the swatch and it's gotten larger than it should be. I think I will give Custom Fit one more go after this, and will definitely spend more time making and testing out a larger swatch.

Erin said...

I had the same issue with too much ease around the waist. To combat this, I re-entered my measurements keeping pretty much everything the same and reducing my waist measurement by the difference in ease that I wanted (about 1 or 2 inches, I think) and then still chose the close fit option.

Your color choice looks great on you!

Unknown said...

This looks great! Love the colour :)